No. All our products are packaged in pre-measured, ready to blend containers so you are assured they are mixed correctly. This is not rocket science, if you can follow a process, you can install a floor whether it is simply a patch or a complete coating system.

This is simple math. Let's say you have a 600 square foot area. If you take one gallon of any liquid (epoxy, urethane, water, milk,etc) and spread it at 1 mil (1/1,000 inch) it will always equal 1,604 sq. ft. Take the recommended thickness of the coating and divide that into the spread amount (example of 10 mil coating: 1,604sq.ft./10 mil = 160 sq. ft. per gallon). Take the per gallon total and divide it into the total square footage of your area (example: 600 sq. ft. / 160 sq. ft. per gallon = 3.75 gallons) you would need 4 gallons.

We provide a large line of 100% solids products, meaning that there are no solvents that need to evaporate, making the air poor to breathe in. These products are allowable for use in all states, including California.

As always, you must follow all Federal, State and Local guidelines, but when blended and hard, all these products are suitable for normal landfill disposal; however, it is alway a good practice to check with your sanitation provider to see if they have a preferred method of disposal or recycling.

That is the biggest misconception. Polymers do not just glue themselves to a substrate. In their liquid form, they weep around a texture, or what we call a profile. When they harden, they key themselves in, similar to a dovetail joint, and will only delaminate if the concrete fails.

As discussed above, a polymer needs a texture to lock in a bond to the concrete. The best texture for adhesion is consistent with the texture of 100 grit sandpaper. It is the porosity that makes an installation successful. Polymers will adhere to concrete, but they will also adhere to dirt, latent concrete and debris so it is very important to make sure it is cleaned away.

No, you do not need expensive frames and covers because odds are, you will be throwing them away. You do want a moderate quality on your consumables and you can find them here.

Our products are designed to clean up with ordinary degreaser soap and water. If you are using the paste and gel forms, hand cleaners like GOJO and FastOrange work very well, especially if they have pumice. If you want to clean them more quickly, solvents such as alchohol and mineral spirits work very well.

It is a general guideline that concrete needs to wait 28 days to cure before a polymer system can be applied. This is because about 7x's the amount of water is concrete than is necessary to make it cure, just so it can be fluid enough to place it. The water needs to evaporate out by forming tiny capillary networks on the surface. Many factors can extend the cure time from thickness, moisture barriers, temperature and humidity. It is best to test for moisture which is explained in the questions list.

The most accurate and accepted method is to perform calcium chloride tests and if this is your choice you should contact us. For smaller areas or a simple method to determine if you need more extensive tests, you could apply a 2' x 2' square piece of plastic (great than 3 mils thick) on the floor and duct tape the seams around the entire perimeter of the sheet. Let the plastic sit for 2 days undisturbed. When you remove the plastic, check for moisture on the plastic or concrete, and look to see if the concrete has darkened in shade. These are typically signs that there is too much moisture. Testing should be in the center of the slab, distanced away from the perimeter or expansion/control joints.

The polymer solids are similar, but the difference is massive in their lower solids content (when their carrier agents dry and what is actually left on the floor after it drys) and the amount of profit they place on their units. Our systems leave a thicker surface film. In this industry, the thicker the system means better resistance to abrasion, traffic wear, delamination from hot tires and chemicals.

Yes, if the previous system is well bonded it can be recoated, regardless who made it. All systems are compatible, there are just simple steps to follow. Think of it like repainting the semi-gloss paint on molding. Remove all dirt, grease and loose coating, then degloss the coating by sanding the surface with 100 grit or more aggressive sandpaper or screens. Depending on the system, priming may also be best.